Mutsu Bay

Mutsu Bay

19 November - Mutsu Bay

We decided to take a driving trip around Mutsu Bay to Aomori. (Check out the map) Aomori is the largest city in northern Honshu (the main island of Japan). There are over 1 million people there. However, the peninsula that is just northeast of Aomori is sparsely populated fishing villages situated on a beautiful but VERY cold in the winter thumb of land. On the way there, we see from in the mountains in the distance that the snow has begun to fall in the higher elevations, soon to come to all northern Japan.

It is only about 20 miles from Misawa to the edge of Mutsu Bay, but like all things, here, it takes a little longer to get anywhere than you might think. The SLOW speed limits along with the lack of a direct route anywhere makes getting places an adventure. When we did reach the Mutsu coast, it was beautiful.

One of the first things we saw along the coast was our first Japanese lighthouse. It is a small, modern structure just above an entry into a fishing port. And, on the beach below we found yet another shrine with marking torii gate. However, this gate was along the water line, and at high tide, must be in the water, making it the first wet torii gate we have found.

One of the things northern Japan is known for is its winter white swans. Apparaently the swans come to the area in winter to get out of the even colder somewhere else? There are certain areas known for them. One of them we found by accident was here along Mutsu Bay. They had a place to by feed, and a really neat little island you can walk out to. The swans are quite stunning. Cant't wait to take some pictures with snow and swan together.

As we continued to follow the road that circled the outer edge of the peninsula, we found, of course, another Shinto Shrine. This one was pretty nice. Many large toroii gates, and an ornate main building, along with several interesting side details, like the dragon water fountain. The shrine set on one of the rare beach-type coastlines of northern Japan. Most of the coast is rocky or mountainous. This was flat all the way out to the water. It really had a hawaiian feel, except for the fact that it was probably 40 degrees out, and there was no one around.

Leaving the shrine and continuing northwest, we came to what looked like the end of the world. Ok, so it was really only the northern most point on the small peninsula, but it was awesome. There was a finger of land that stretched out from the peninsula - at the end of the finger was a small mountain island.

The water between the land and the island was only a foot or so deep. A bridge connected the island to the mainland, with a trail continuing up onto the island the bridge. I had no idea what was on the island, but the torii gate told me there was at least another shrine to see. So of course I had to see where the trail led. The bridge itself was a spectacular site - while the water under the bridge was shallow, it deepened on either side of the bridge going out into the bay. That being the case, there were waves coming towards the bridge from both sides.

Jenn was not feeling to well, so she took a nap in the van while I headed out to see what was on the island. I crossed the bridge, and saw the trail heading straight up the mountain. I explored the beach at the base of the trail and found a TON of plastic fishing balls. This area must be a popular fishing spot, because there were still some nets out, even though I think the season was winding down a bit. And there were a massive amount of plastic balls washed up. The GLASS fishing balls are the ones people collect, so i thought maybe I could get one out here. No luck finding a whole ball, but I did find pieces, so they do wash up on this beach. I then headed up the trail.

The trail went to the top ridge of the hill, and followed it down the length of the island. The island was actually two hills connected into one island. The trail kept going for a while. But, I knew it couldn't go too far because I had seen the end of the island on the drive.

Finally, the trees thinned enough to see what was at the end of the island. There was a small lighthouse on the top of the mountain. Looking past the lightshouse, you can see the mountains creating the opening of Mutsu Bay off in the distance.

And of course, behind the lighthouse, on the furthest point out on the hill was the Shinto shrine, as promised by the torii gate at the bridge.

Well, I knew I should be getting back since Jenn was asleep in the car, but I noticed on either side of the lighthouse hill, there were beaches with tons of fishing balls. It was just a small jaunt down the side of the hill to check and see if I could find our first glass ball. So, I ran down to the beach on one side of the island. After walking down a couple hundred yards on the beach, the rocks along the coast blocked my path. Despite the again tons of plastic balls and styrofoam, I had found but a small collection of glass ball shards, nothing intact. I went back to the only way to get back to the trail, and went up. Again, I knew I should be getting back, but I just had to check the beach on the other side of the island. So, I ran down the other side of the trail to inspect. As I walked down this side of the island, I continued on for a lot further before the path was cut off. Again, I found a ridiculous amount of plastic balls and other junk, and more glass ball parts, but nothing intact. However, when I got to the end, I didn't want to walk all the way back to where I entered from the trail, so I made my own path up the steep side slope, and despite almost sliding back down the hill into the ocean a couple times, I made it back to the trail.

I then hustled back to the car, because by now some time had past since I left. When I finally did get back, somehow a couple hours had past since I had left. Jenn had woken up (which I hadn't anticipated) and worried that I had fallen into the ocean and been swept off to China. So, not only did I NOT find a glass ball, but I gave Jenn a heart attack...

We continued south along the peninsula. On the east side of the peninsula, the coast was more flat and accessible. The road had just above sea level, and followed the narrow, peddle beachline. When there was no beach, there was a flat area along the water line (like the area with the swans) before the land sloped up into mountains a hundred yards off the coast. On the west side of the peninsula, the coast was steep and mountainous all the way to the waterline. The road climbed up to continue. The coastline here is very similar to the Big Sur type coastline of central California. Very scenic when you could see it, but very un-accessible. Combined with the fact there there were just very few people living out here and there is really only this one road that goes around the outer edge of the peninsula, it makes for a very remote area.

In the couple areas where the steep coast flattens out in a valley, there were small fishing villages. There would be a collection of houses, a small convienience store, and tons of fishing nets - many with the glass balls I was hunting for...I was tempted to just try and buy some from the local fishermen. It seemed that they had plenty...I think I may try and do that next time we are out there...but while exploring one of the fishing villages, we hit paydirt.

We drove to the waters edge to check out another mountain island (below). This village had tons of fishing nets, that all seemed to be folded up and put away, possibly done for the winter. The village was picturesque - sitting in a quaint inlet nestled in the mountainous coast. There was flat spot right near the waters edge that looked like a great place to hang out and just enjoy the scenery, until we saw the cartoon, tsunami warning sign...

As we were driving back to the road, we noticed a glass ball was laying in a bunch of weeds all by itself. It seemed to be discarded - it was all by itself - but I was not really sure. And there were some fishermen working over in their nets a little ways away. But, we decided it had to be not wanted, so I sauntered out to the pile of weeds, and snatched up our first glass ball. On the dash back to the car, I bonked my head on a huge metal bar hanging from a light pole. So, I paid for it, in a way. Upon further inspection, the stealth and running probably wasn't neccessary - it was discarded for a reason - one side had been broken open so it would no longer float. Whoever had it just tossed it into the weeds to get rid of it. So I really did the a favor by getting rid of it for them.

After leaving the fishing village, the road winds itself off the peninsula, and down around the bay's edge till it reaches Aomori. Aomori is the largest city in northern Honshu. There are over 1 million people living there. It is the gateway to Hokkaido, the island north of Honshu. The Seikan Tunnel (underwater train tunnel) goes from here to Hokkaido - It is the longest tunnel in the world at 34 miles long. We drove into town and visited the ASPAM. It is their visitor center/convention center. It is the large triangle building below. That, along with their friendship bridge make the downtown area look quite modern despite it being an older, cramped city.